RMFootballBlog : RMFB Midseason Awards

We are out of the Copa, which means we don’t have a midweek game today. On Saturday, we took on Getafe away from home in what turned out to be a game that was harder than we it should  have been on paper. The game was not exciting. Nothing important to take from it either. And unfortunately, our review extraordinaire, Mark, is out with a classic case of game too boring to write about. This means you get to read a post that is meaningless and written on a whim. What better than a RMFB mid-season award ceremony?! Are you ready? Remember, we are all winners here!

The Best Piggy Back Ride award goes to…. Callejon! While many thought that this kid would  be another Pedro Leon and play a marginal role in the squad, Callejon has proven the doubters wrong. He has played just 870 minutes, scoring 11 goals and assisting two. Add to that the fact that one of those goals was the winning goal against Mallorca that assured that RM stayed in the lead, and you see how important he has been to the squad. He was also the lucky SOB to be standing at the right time and right place for Mourinho to perform a piggy back ride on him in celebration of the goal vs Valencia. Sources at RMFB tell us he practiced that in training.

The He’s Too Handsome and Rich To Track Back award goes to…… Ronaldo!! Ronaldo started out the season in flying colors, scoring goals faster than i can eat pies. And I can eat pies. And eat them fast. A little bit of a slump, which to any normal human being would not even be considered a slump, and Ronaldo was back a changed man. Against Barcelona, he was a beast. Tracked back, tackled and just fought for every single ball there was. If you thought it ended there, then you were wrong. Against Zaragoza, Ronaldo, who was playing at LW, tracked back to cover for Altintop who was playing at RB. And people still complain that he is not a team player and doesn’t help out in defense. FYI, he also has eight assists to his name.

The This Was Not In The Job Description award goes to…. Karanka! When Karanka took over the job, i highly doubt that he expected to be handling soo many press conferences and soo many games. He even took over a Clasico last year at the Camp Nou and the first half of our group stage CL campaign. All this practice he has been getting can only get him closer to his dream of becoming a coach one day, and who knows, maybe we will see him take over the manager role at our club. Karanka will send a warning to future assistants of Mourinho: This is not an easy job. But then again, no one told Tito Villanova his job had an eye hazard!

The We Have Blind People Doing Our Covers award goes to….. Marca!! In a moment of total stupidity, someone at the headquarters at Marca decided that the best way to celebrate Higuain and Benzema playing together succesfully is to freakishly morph their faces into one. You will have nightmares when you see what they call a “Benguain”. But then again, what else is expected from this prestigious, self respecting and totally trustworthy organization?

The Twitter King award goes to….. Arbeloaman!! Need i say more about this?

The Even Saints Use Google Translate award goes to…. Iker Casillas! If you have facebook, and you don’t “like” Casillas on there, then you better reevaluate your presence on that social network. You are probably thinking, I don’t know spanish, so how can i actually read what he posts? Well fear not fellow fan of Iker, our saint goes into the trouble to use the millions he has to use google translate and translate his tweet. If you ever read something about Barns, then he is probably talking about Granero. Why is that? Well, you have to ask google translate that.

The Too Many To Keep Count award goes to…. The 34028375328 El Clásicos we had. The beauty of a Clasico was the fact that it was a rare specticle. But guess what, eating Kobe Beef every day gets tiring after a while. Add to that our inability to actually mount more than one win in all those games and you have Bassam going: Not again, please not again!

The I Want To Be Neymar When I Grow Younger award goes to….. Kaushik! I once woke up to a text from Kaushik saying his idol was Neymar and that if he needed to fund the transfer himself, he is willing to do that himself. It is only fitting that an award goes to him for his fan boy crush on Neymar, just so he feels like his dreams in life are being appreciated. You can send him hugs, but they won’t be the same not coming from Neymar…

The Non Apology Apology award goes to….. Pepe! I’m sorry Pepe, if you don’t approve of this award, then I apologize and i really didn’t mean to give it to you. On a serious note though, it’s been a roller coaster ride with Pepe. I won’t go into it, since this deserves a post of it’s own, but maybe we need to soon give Pepe the It Was Fun While It Lasted award…

The Ho Ho Ho and a Bottle of Rum award goes to…. Granero!! Just when you start writing this guy off, he comes in to prove that his presence next to Alonso does not provide a drop in quality, but rather add ball playing ability. Our Pirate has been getting some good time lately and the fans have been appreciating his efforts as they gave him a standing ovation the other game.

The I Believe In Unicorns award goes to…. Sahin! The nickname Nuricorn comes into mind at this point. The best player in the Bundes Liga last season is finding it hard to get two minutes together on the field (or the bench sometimes) in a position that the club is lacking in most. One must wonder where the problem is, but Nuri Sahin is extremely talented, and he can give us an extra dimension. But right now, I think It’s more likely to see a unicorn than our very own Nuricorn

The I Own The Center Now award goes to…. Ramos! Remember when Ramos used to play on the right? Yea yea, he used to run up and down the right flank just so his hair jumps up and down and girls all over drool. Or you know, so i  hear. Well our newly initiated matador has been conquering the center of the defense like he was born to play there. Composed, collected and extremely influential, Ramos for me has not only peaked in the CB position, but also been the best player of the first half of the season. And I’m sure the girls can still appreciate the flowing hair as he runs through the center of the field. Speaking of hair….

The Needs Some Eye Brow Tweezers award goes to….. Altintop!! Because bro, your eyes don’t need a bridge connecting them! And the final award….

The Altintop award goes to…. Altintop! Because you know, he deserves two awards!

All about Sensory Image Camera

Cut here cut there paste here… enjoy the show!

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An image sensor is a device that converts an optical image into an electronic signal. It is used mostly in digital cameras and other imaging devices. Early analog sensors were video camera tubes, most currently used are digital charge-coupled device (CCD) or complementary metal–oxide–semiconductor (CMOSactive pixel sensors.

CCD vs CMOS

Today, most digital still cameras use either a CCD image sensor or a CMOS sensor. Both types of sensor accomplish the same task of capturing light and converting it into electrical signals.

CCD image sensor is an analog device. When light strikes the chip it is held as a small electrical charge in each photo sensor. The charges are converted to voltage one pixel at a time as they are read from the chip. Additional circuitry in the camera converts the voltage into digital information.

A CMOS imaging chip is a type of active pixel sensor made using the CMOS semiconductor process. Extra circuitry next to each photo sensor converts the light energy to a voltage. Additional circuitry on the chip may be included to convert the voltage to digital data.

Neither technology has a clear advantage in image quality. On one hand, CCD sensors are more susceptible to vertical smear from bright light sources when the sensor is overloaded; high-end frame transfer CCDs in turn do not suffer from this problem. On the other hand, CMOS sensors are susceptible to undesired effects that come as a result of rolling shutter.

CMOS can potentially be implemented with fewer components, use less power, and/or provide faster readout than CCDs. CCD is a more mature technologyand is in most respects the equal of CMOS.[1][2] CMOS sensors are less expensive to manufacture than CCD sensors.

Another hybrid CCD/CMOS architecture, sold under the name “sCMOS”, consists of CMOS readout integrated circuits (ROICs) that are bump bonded to a CCD imaging substrate – a technology that was developed for infrared staring arrays and now adapted to silicon-based detector technology.[3] Another approach is to utilize the very fine dimensions available in modern CMOS technology to implement a CCD like structure entirely in CMOS technology. This can be achieved by separating individual poly-silicon gates by a very small gap. These hybrid sensors are still in the research phase, and can potentially harness the benefits of both the CCDs and the CMOS imagers.[4]

What is a Backside Illumination CMOS sensor?

Backside illumination CMOS sensors refer to a new type of structure over previously used CMOS sensors. These sensors change the positioning of a wiring layer to reduce light loss which results in an increase of light sensitivity and a reduction of noise recorded on the image.
Image
The image above shows a conventional CMOS design on the left and a Backside Illuminated CMOS sensor design on the right.

The conventional CMOS design has the Metal Wiring layer (indicated by the Blue square) positioned above the Photodiode layer (indicated by the brown square). Due to the positioning of the Metal wiring layer some light is reflected and therfore is lost

The Backside Illuminated CMOS sensor has the Metal wiring layer positioned below the Photodiode layer which means light is not reflected and lost. Due to this design the Photodiodes receive more light and the sensor is able to produce higher quality images in dark or low light scenes. So in my opinion, if you see the spec of your camera backside illuminated CMOS then it’s a good thing than have the conventional CMOS.

WHY DOES SENSORY IMAGE SIZE MATTER?

The first thing I look for when purchasing a camera is something most aren’t even aware of. It’s not the brand name or the quality of the lens, the touch screen technology or the LCD screen size, and not the array of functions it offers or shooting presets available – it’s the size of the image sensor. As a 20-year pro photographer who’s captured over a million images during my career, I’m the guy who admires the parts of the engine instead of falling in love with the flashy exterior or high-end sound system. The image sensor is where the rubber meets the photosensitive diodes.

In writing my first installment for Primed, I’ll give a few definitions to clear things up a bit when it comes to a camera’s image sensors and size, explain in detail the parts of a sensor, how it alters the photos (or video) you capture, where it came from, and why it’s important to consider its size – I’ll cover the meat and bones, get to the heart of the matter, the nub, the crux, the nuts and bolts, get down to the brass tacks, all while exhausting our thesaurus. Let’s dive in, shall we?

In today’s digital SLR camera, the image sensor is what film was to a 35mm SLR camera. It isn’t a setting you can control in your camera’s menu, yet a specification you may wish to purchase. Known as a solid-state device, it’s a silicon chip of a certain size containing millions of photosensitive diodes called photosites (or sensels) that record light or photons, transforming them into an electric signal displaying color, tone, highlight, and shadow — to convey the moment you just captured. A digital image file is created from this process, which stores the recorded light data as a set of numbers corresponding to the color and brightness of each pixel. (It’s the smallest addressable screen element — also known as a pel standing for “picture element” on a display — just keep clicking the magnifying tool in Photoshop and you’ll meet one face to face.) In a magical way only Doug Henning would be proud of, all of these pixels come together to create a single image, a photograph.

Sensors come in two forms – either a charged-coupled device (CCD) or a complementary metal–oxide–semiconductor (CMOS) – and are predominantly used in digital cameras: everything from your smartphone to a point-and-shoot, a Four Thirds to a DSLR, to a medium format system. They range from 3 to 3,200 megapixels, although the consumer market at the moment lies below the 80MP range.

Image sensors came into the world through the public and private sector – one avenue through the government’s use of digital technology to further a desire in their peeping Tom business of spy satellites. Their work advanced the science of digital imaging and in the 1960s engineer Eugene Lally, working for NASA’s Jet Propulsion Laboratory (JPL), described the use of mosaic photosensors to digitize light signals, which in turn produced still images. NASA followed this discovery over subsequent years developing small, light, powerful image sensors for use in the harsh conditions of space. JPL engineer Frederic Billingsley first used the word pixel in 1965. I wonder if he was related to the Beaver’s mom, Barbara Billingsley?

On the private end, in 1969, Bell Labs’ need for developing a solid-state camera for use in video telephone service also played a part in the invention of the image sensor. George Smith and Willard Boyle, attempting to create a new kind of semiconductor memory for computers, designed a new form of imaging technology, the very first CCD. This got the ball rolling for the development of digital photography, and the Nobel Prize in Physics for Boyle and Smith in 2009.

There’s some dispute as to who created the first digital camera – some say Texas Instruments is to thank. It patented a film-less electronic camera in 1972 – today, 96 percent of its business deals with semiconductors (acquiring National Semiconductor earlier this year for a cool $6.5 billion). Other reports say Eastman Kodak made the first one in 1975 (developed with NASA’s JPL), then again some believe it was Sony’s 1981 analog electric camera Mavica which was the first consumer SLR camera to use CCD, 100 x 100 pixel, eliminating the need for film – although I’m not sure I’d want my precious family reunion photo created by one of those things.

Nikon put its chips on the table in 1986 with its prototype called SVC, and then in 1990, Kodak introduced the first commercially available fully digital SLR, the DCS-100, a 1.3 megapixel digital camera back that attached to a Nikon F3 SLR film body – this modified drive unit not only had an external storage unit connected via cable and could produce a 5×7-inch digital photo-quality print, but also ran a hefty $30,000 US. Ouch. Needless to say, we’ve come a long way in 21 years. During this period, image sensor quality, efficiently, size and availability increased while prices dropped – the first sign in the consumer market that film might not be dead, but it was dying. Sure, it still remains a favorite medium of hard-core artist-photographers and up-and-comers who never had the chance to try techniques like cross-processing, but the market is small and getting smaller.

Throughout the 1990s, JPL continued to further the advancement of CMOS image sensors. Its goal was to maintain scientific image quality while creating a camera for interplanetary spacecrafts. CMOS sensors appealed to NASA than the more widely used CCD because CMOS sensors were easier and cheaper to manufacture, and offered a slightly different method of recording the signals. This, in turn consumed less power — up to 100 times less — and when it comes to space, battery power is critical. Later, JPL invented the CMOS active-pixel sensor (CMOS-APS), widely used in mid-range DSLR models today, which, through amplification, improved the image quality still with less power demand. CCDs were the original technology for image sensors and are still used today in other applications, but the digital imaging direction seems to have shifted toward CMOS – at least in the consumer market – most cellphone cameras use CMOS sensors as do the most compact and DSLR models.

By 1999, Nikon’s D1 was a fully integrated DSLR offering the use of its manual-focus and auto-focus lenses. Other manufacturers entered the digital market soon after: Fujifilm in 2000, Canon in 2001 with its 4.1 megapixel EOS-1D, not to mention Minolta, Pentax, Olympus, Panasonic, Samsung, Sigma and Sony. Canon continued the push the boundaries, introducing its 6.3 megapixel EOS 300D SLR camera in 2003, with an MSRP under a grand. Since the CCD was originally invented for video, it wasn’t long until Nikon caught on and released the D90 in 2009, the first DSLR to feature video recording.

My first experience with digital was in 1995, in the middle of the Utah desert shooting with Nikon’s E2s digital SLR. While digitally documenting the Eco-Challenge adventure race I transmitted my images over phone lines every evening, watching my filmless photos appear across four columns in the Salt Lake City Tribune the following day – it was a weird and wild experience. Over the past seven to eight years not only has digital technology taken over the market in consumer purchases, but improvements and options added in the majority of DSLR cameras also helped digital match film in quality and detail. I finally eBay-ed my last film camera earlier this year, my beloved medium format system, mainly because I hadn’t used it for a while and didn’t feel like adding the bulky, expensive digital back to an already cumbersome heavy camera. Admittedly, I’ve also been super pleased with the detail obtained from my DSLR system.

Even though you may decide buy a certain brand of camera, you may have a Sony image sensor inside regardless.

Larger, more efficient image sensors continue to be manufactured. Megapixel counts are on the rise, as is high ISO performance, and the minimization of digital ‘noise’ produced by the sensor – which is a major downer, so fixing this would be cool. These new sensors can capture a massive amount of detail, with little noise producing vibrant photos with rich hues and crystal clear detail. Sony is a major player in the digital market, most unaware of its role as a huge manufacturer of camera sensors, supplying many of its competitors. Even though you may decide to buy a certain non-Sonybrand of camera, there’s very possibly a Sony image sensor inside regardless.


Sony NEX-C3 sensor compared to Nikon J1 sensor

Today, many high-end pro-level DSLRs come with full frame image sensors – equal to the size of 35mm film (36 x 24 mm), thus the name “full frame.” Of course, full frame doesn’t come cheap — nowhere near it, actually. High quality equates to high price. However, in 2009 with the release of the Alpha 850 (the first full frame DSLR under $2000), Sony broke that mold by offering an affordable alternative at an amateur-level price. I’m not entirely sure why manufacturers like Nikon have chosen to offer only one DSLR model above 20 megapixels at a current astronomical cost of $8000, while Canon offers two, its lowest at a much more reasonable $2500. Sony’s Alpha 900 rates highest in this 35mm full frame image sensor class with a 24.6-megapixel resolution. Having said that, I hear this may be changing in the upcoming months as whispers of a robust image sensor in Nikon’s new D800 moves through the tech rumor mill… or is it the D4? No definitive news as of yet.

Translucent mirrors in DSLRs have also entered the market, replacing reflex mirrors that flip up and down to expose the sensor – these new versions allow photographers to shoot faster with minimal shake and hesitation between frames, but don’t necessarily offer an advantage when it comes to image sensor quality. Another form of the digital advancement we’re seeing more of this year is mirrorless interchangeable-lens cameras (MILC). Positioned between compact cameras and DSLRs, these cameras have created a new format called Micro Four Thirds (MFT), often without viewfinders, and vary in image sensor size, five to nine times larger than the Four Thirds system, yet smaller than DSLR full frame sensors – the advantage being a larger sensor in a smaller camera.

Now you know what an image sensor is, how it came to be, and why you may need to work a few extra hours to afford this expensive hobby, but digital imaging still remains a mathematical game — not surprising since a photograph is comprised of numbers determining pixel color, placement, intensity, as well as millions that make up a digital image file. When it comes to getting frisky, Dr. Drew might say it’s the motion of the ocean, but when you consider a camera’s image sensor, size matters, and knowing the differences, advantages, and disadvantage becomes critical.

I recently watched an interview NBC’s Brian Williams did with Annie Leibovitz who, when asked what kind of camera one should buy, remarked the iPhone – “that is the snapshot camera of today… it’s the wallet with the family pictures in it.” Although I truly dig the iPhone 4S‘ new 8 megapixel camera and all the revolutionary technology crammed into the smartphone, the Sony-made image sensor is just not large enough to rival images captured with a DSLR – and that’s expected. Apple describes its A5 chip, designed with an image signal processor, as “just as good as the ones found in DSLR cameras” and this might be true, but the image sensor is not – big difference between a signal processor and a sensor. It might allow you to shoot faster, or capture nice color and tonal range, or to use when you don’t have a camera handy, but it can’t match the quality of a larger image sensor that’s comes with a higher-quality lens. Simply put, you can’t squeeze a V8 engine into a moped. Then again, I can’t make a call, text, tweet, Google Map a route, or play Fruit Ninja with my DSLR camera, either. I will say the iPhone makes a great compact portfolio.

To know what to look for, you must first consider an image sensor size comparison between camera types, as seen in Table 1-1 below.

Image Sensor
Size
Camera types
Medium format 50.7 x 39 mm High-end Pro digital medium format
Full frame 36 x 24 mm High-end Pro DSLRs
APS-C 24 x 16 mm Prosumer-based DSLRs
4/3″ 17.3 x 13 mm Four Thirds System
1/1.8″ 7.2 x 5.3 mm High-end compact cameras
1/2.5″ 5.3 x 4.0 mm Consumer-based compact cameras and high-end cellphone cameras

Compact cameras and cellphones start off tiny – anywhere from 5.3 x 4.0mm up to 20.7 x 13.8mm; this goes back to the V8 vs. moped reference – the trade-offs for lightweight and small size equates to lower quality image files.

Amateur and mid-level DSLRs usually house a decently sized APS sensor ranging from 22.2 x 14.8mm to 28.7 x 19mm – larger than a compact and Micro Four Thirds camera, yet smaller than a high-end DSLR. Combine this APS sensor size with a DSLR lens and you add a crop factor of 1.3x to 1.6x (depending on the size of the sensor) changing the length of your lens. If your lens is 100mm, with an APS-sensor camera, it’s now a 130mm with a 1.3x crop factor, or 160mm with a 1.6x crop factor. This isn’t an advantage or disadvantage, just a mathematical fact. Some manufacturers produce sensor-specific modes (such as Nikon’s D3 and D700 DSLRs) to counteract this issue, accommodating different lens formats.

As mentioned earlier, pro-level DSLRs come with full frame image sensors around 36 x 24mm, matching the 3×2 format of 35mm film, offering a larger sensor with no crop factor. Medium format digital cameras go a step further storing the largest image sensors in the consumer market, up to four times larger than full frame, from 50.7 x 39 mm to 53.7 x 40.3mm, producing the highest-quality image files; however, you lose mobility with the size and weight of these bulkier systems, and their costs can match a new car loan. Unless, of course, you’re a pro photographer charging Leibovitz-level rates or were left a nice trust fund from Grandpa Rockefeller. For the majority of consumers, this slice of photographic heaven is out of reach.

It should be noted that the smaller your image sensor is, the more depth of field you acquire for the equivalent field of view and aperture. Take a 100mm lens on a Four Thirds camera, and it’s easier to get everything in focus more so than with a pro-level DSLR with that same focal length. The misconception to some is to see this as an advantage, but I don’t. Having more control over depth of field is the advantage in photography, so larger sensors with more photographic knowledge is the way to go.

With this newfound knowledge of ‘larger equals more money’ when it comes to image sensor versus price, why pay the additional cost? Answer: better image quality in the form of detail, low light performance, reduced noise, and a greater dynamic range. In case you were wondering, here comes the meat and bones.

Detail

Quality and detail go hand in hand. We see this today when we compare a VHS tape to a DVD, or even a DVD to a Blu-ray Disc. The theory follows the same film-based fact the master B&W photographers utilized throughout the 20th century: the larger the film size, the more information they secured. This transfers into sharpness of intricate details within a photograph. It may not seem to make a difference when viewing photos as small JPEGs on the web or your smartphone screen, but shift to a larger high-res display or print enlargement and you begin to see what I mean. Step up to the next level with a 5 x 7 print and again the quality comparison becomes more evident. Once you decide to zoom into the original image file in Photoshop, or blow it up to a 20 x 30 print, major differences rear their ugly heads in the form of fuzzy detail, less dynamic range and digital noise.

Low light performance / High ISO noise

The definition of digital noise in a photograph is randomly spaced, brightly colored pixels – in a sense; it’s interference showing up in your images, often seen in darker sections like shadows or large single-toned areas like a clear sky. The more you raise the ISO in your camera, increasing the image sensor’s sensitivity to light, the more noise shows up – very similar to grain with high ISO films. Just crank up your ISO over 800, or use your auto ISO (one feature I’m not fond of) and every time the camera decides to blast your ISO into noise hell, you begin to see the after-effects.

Besides the amount of pixels increasing, the larger your sensor, the less noise you acquire at higher ISO settings.

Digital noise can replace small features and proper color – lack of richness in shadow areas and less-than-smooth detail –the reason why I recommend using a higher ISO only as a last resort.

However, image sensor size also plays an important role when it comes to noise. Besides the amount of pixels increasing, the larger your sensor, the less noise you acquire at higher ISO settings. This is due to the larger pixel’s ability to receive more light, creating a greater signal-to-noise (S/N) ratio (as with any electrical system, whether sound or image based, the better the signal, the less audible or visual noise you receive). Photosites on the sensor can also be farther apart creating less contamination from electrical signals if they were closer. The result? Smoother photographic renditions on higher ISOs, expanding the range of light a photographer can capture, especially with moving subjects in low light. I think I’m salivating.

How to find out which camera has the best S/N ratio depending on the ISO setting? An independent test lab known as DxOmark rates sensors depending on a camera’s S/N ratio and charts performance at each ISO setting, pointing out unacceptable level of noise, measured in decibels.

Greater dynamic range

The larger and higher quality your image sensor, the greater dynamic range it can cover in a single image file — yet another big advantage in photography. In their tests, DxOmark looks for a dynamic range of at least 9EVs (or 9 stops of light) in each sensor – a measurement of the range from highlight to shadow – the more range covered, the better the image quality. As an expert in exposure, having written a book on the topic, another misconception of most photographers is the ability to capture all detail in all areas of any given scene. This is impossible for most scenes since many fall out of the dynamic range of the image sensor; it was no different with film, and actually the dynamic range was smaller – around 6 stops of light.

DxOmark considers 9EVs or less too limiting for image sensors, showing less than smooth gradations between shades and colors below this level. Leaf — a digital back manufacturer that entered the market in 1992 and partnered with Phase One in 2009 — claims its latest full frame 53.7 x 40.3mm sensor can cover an “unsurpassed 12 f–stop dynamic range.” DxOmark agrees, listing Phase One’s top medium format digital back as the highest image sensor quality in the consumer market with a 91 out of 100 rating; but then again, a $42,000 price tag should get you no less. Nikon’s more reasonable (yet still costly at $5100) D3S ranked highest in the DSLR category, and Pentax’s K5 was tops for APS-C sensor followed closely by Sony’s NEX-7 mirrorless camera.

With changes in digital technology moving at a rapid pace, it’s hard to say which direction image sensors will go in the near future – we may even see a new type of technology take over the market. I would guess organizations like NASA may play a big part in determining what goes into our cameras of tomorrow. Having an interest in securing as much detail about distant stars and galaxies, much of its visual work relies on the quality and size of the image sensor inside space-based telescopes.

DALSA Semiconductor successfully manufactured a 111 megapixel image sensor as early as 2006. Then, in 2009, it was announced the Large Synoptic Survey Telescope (the world’s largest sky-survey telescope partially sponsored by Mr. Microsoft himself, Bill Gates) had a massive 3,200 megapixel camera to cover the universe, delivering near real-time images to the public — that’s right, 3,200 megapixels — space is large, dudes. Fermilab followed this up in 2010 with its 4-ton Dark Energy Camera cranking upwards of 570 megapixels. These sensors may be too large to fit into any current consumer-based digital system, but I’m sure the technology to shrink ’em down is in the works.

The size of a camera and its image sensor should get smaller. That’s to say, manufacturers most likely will be able to fit more onto a sensor with finer detail and better quality, but I imagine the same theory that has been a part of photography the past 180 years will continue to apply. Math rarely changes regardless of the medium. The larger the sensor you have in your camera, the more detail, less noise, and more superior image quality you will obtain – and although you’ll have so much more than you did just a few years earlier, you’ll still want more.

My Conclusion

  1. Both CCD and CMOS has no clear technology. Choose properly and carefully about what you need. As notes, people reviews says that CMOS is having much better quality in video.
  2. The Backside Illuminated CMOS sensor is able to produce higher quality images in dark or low light scenes rather than the conventional CMOS sensor.
  3. Your camera’s sensor size does matter!
This is the example where you check camera size on reviews (dpreview.com)
MP, Sensor Size, and Sensor type of respectively Nikon CoolpixP300, Nikon Coolpix P310, and Nikon Coolpix AW100
12.7 megapixels
16.8 megapixels
16.8 megapixels
1/2.3″ (6.17 x 4.55 mm)
1/2.3″ (6.17 x 4.55 mm)
1/2.3″ (6.17 x 4.55 mm)
BSI-CMOS
BSI-CMOS
CMOS

Source

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image_sensor

http://nikonasia-en.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/6777/~/what-is-a-backside-illumination-cmos-sensor%3F

http://www.engadget.com/2011/12/16/engadget-primed-why-your-cameras-sensor-size-matters/

iPhone camera comparison

Another repost by me about comparison between old-version iPhone, the new-gen iPhone, with advanced SLR Digital Camera or point and shoot camera from here :

A photo comparisons from all iPhone version cameras taken with Camera+ (First generation iPhone, iPhone 3G, iPhone 3GS, iPhone 4, the new iPhone 4S), a point & shoot camera, the Canon S95 ($500), and a professional dSLR, the Canon 5DMKII ($4000+) in two situations:

  1. A macro setting to test detail and quality of the cameras
  2. 2. A backlit skyline shot

The iPhone 4S is dramatically clearer and sharper than previous iPhone versions. Using separate focus and exposure in Camera+ on the iPhone 4 & 4S significantly helped create a more balanced exposure. While it’s not nearing the same quality as a professional level dSLR, it is comparable to a top of the line compact camera and even outshines it in some ways.

Original iPhone

taken with Apple iPhone
iPhone 3G

taken with Apple iPhone
iPhone 3GS

taken with Apple iPhone
iPhone 4

taken with Apple iPhone 4
iPhone 4S

taken with Apple iPhone 4S
Canon S95

taken with Canon PowerShot S95
Canon 5DMKII + 100mm f/2.8

taken with Canon EOS 5D Mark II
Original iPhone

taken with Apple iPhone
iPhone 3G

taken with Apple iPhone
iPhone 3GS

taken with Apple iPhone 3GS
iPhone 4

taken with Apple iPhone 4
iPhone 4S

taken with Apple iPhone 4S
Canon S95

taken with Canon PowerShot S95
Canon 5DMKII + 24-70mm f/2.8

taken with Canon EOS 5D Mark II

Bokeh on Point and Shoot Camera

Good articles from here :

I get many emails from our readers asking me how they can get good bokeh out of their point and shoot cameras. I first thought about posting a short paragraph in a Photography FAQ post, but then decided to elaborate more on the subject and explain it in detail, rather than providing a short answer. Hopefully those who have point and shoot cameras will understand everything I say, since I will do my best to explain the subject in simple terms.

1) What is Bokeh?

As I explained in my “What is Bokeh” article, Bokeh is the quality of out-of-focus or “blurry” parts of the image rendered by a camera lens. The key word here is “quality”, since bokeh is not the second name for the blurry parts of the image. When you hear somebody say “the bokeh on that image is creamy and beautiful”, they are simply referring to the overall quality and feel of the out-of-focus area, not the out-of-focus area itself.

Creamy Bokeh

See the soft out-of-focus area behind this cute boy? That’s what quality bokeh typically looks like. How do you achieve a similar result on a point and shoot camera?

2) How to get background blur in your images

Before we talk about bokeh, let’s see how you can first separate a subject from the background with a point and shoot camera and get blur in your images. Obviously, when I say “blur”, I mean the “out-of-focus” area, not motion blur. Most digital cameras are capable of producing out-of-focus areas when the camera lens is focused at a very close subject with a large lens opening called “aperture“. Here is what you need to do to create some blur behind your subject:

  1. If you have an advanced point and shoot camera, switch the camera mode to “Aperture-Priority“. If your camera does not have such mode, switch to “Macro” or “Portrait” mode, which also work great.
  2. Turn off camera flash.
  3. Ideally, you should do this outside during a sunny day to shoot at low sensor sensitivity or “ISO” and to get lots of light reflections/highlights into the image. If you are shooting indoors, make sure to do it during the day and do it in a well-lit area with large windows behind you. Otherwise, you will need to use a tripod.
  4. Pick a relatively small subject with plenty of textures to be able to focus on it easily.
  5. Make sure that your subject is physically isolated from the background. For example, if you are taking a picture of a coke can, make sure that the objects behind the can are relatively far. If you have objects close to the subject, they will be in focus (which is not what you want), while placing objects at a distance will make them out of focus.
  6. Make sure that the objects in the background have reflective surfaces. Glass and metal surfaces are great candidates for the background.
  7. Hold the point and shoot camera as close to the subject that you want to appear sharp in your image as possible.
  8. Focus on your subject by half-pressing the shutter button. Make sure that your subject is in focus.
  9. Take a picture and view it on the camera LCD, making sure that your subject appears sharp, while the background looks blurry.
  10. If your camera has an optical zoom feature, zoom in all the way and take another shot.

Here is an example that I shot indoors:

Point and shoot Bokeh

The champagne bottle on the left side was the subject in focus and the flowers in vase at the end of the table appear blurry or out-of-focus. The above shot was taken with my iPhone, which I use as my point and shoot camera. As you can see, you can get blurry backgrounds with pretty much any camera out there.

The above example will be a great way to see the type of bokeh your camera and its lens are capable of producing. If the background blur looks nice and smooth (which basically means good bokeh), you could use the same technique to isolate your subjects in the future.

The background blur in the above image looks nothing like the one in the first one, doesn’t it? Let me explain why.

4) Limitations of point and shoot cameras

As I have demonstrated above, almost any camera is capable of producing out of focus areas when the lens is focused at a very close subject. However, not all cameras are capable of producing good-looking bokeh. There are several reasons for this:

  1. Point and shoot cameras have very small sensors. The size of the camera sensor is directly related to depth of field (the area of the image that appears sharp or “in focus”) – the smaller the camera sensor, the larger/greater the depth of field. When compared to film or full-frame digital cameras, point and shoot cameras typically have sensors that are 15+ times smaller in size. Because of this, the area that appears sharp is much larger in size than what it would be on a DSLR camera, making it harder to isolate the subjects. That’s why in the above instructions I asked you to keep background objects far away from your subject – if you leave them close, they will be in focus due to the large depth of field.
  2. The lenses in point and shoot cameras are not optically designed to create good-looking bokeh and are very limited in terms of minimum and maximum apertures and focal lengths. Generally, lenses in point and shoot cameras are wide-angle and have short focal lengths to cover as much of the area as possible, which puts most of the scene in focus. Cameras with optical zoom lenses typically change apertures to a larger number when you zoom in (thus increasing depth of field), making it even harder to separate the subject from the background.
  3. Most point and shoot cameras are designed to put everything into focus, so that the pictures people take do not turn out to be blurry due to focus issues. That’s why most of focusing in point and shoot cameras is automated, with face and scene recognition systems specifically designed to automatically acquire focus on the right target. This is because typical point and shoot camera users only need sharp images – they do not care about out-of-focus areas and bokeh.

I hope this helps.